Stage 2

Stage 2.

Day 1 June 27th  2019

Kilkenny-Jerpoint Abbey-Dunbrody Abbey-Tintern Abbey- Graiguenamanagh Abbey- Baltinglas Abbey- Bolton Abbey and back to Mt. St Joseph Abbey, approx. 203 miles.

Some felt that I had ended the first stage in Kilkenny abruptly. After a quick shower Paddy and I walked up to town to relax and then he treated me to a belated 81^st Birthday meal in Anocht, a fine dining restaurant in the Kilkenny Design Centre, a fitting end to hard cycling.

Medieval Cistercian Abbeys required they be in isolated places. Later towns built up around them. Cycling to them even with GPS and Google Maps was tricky. More and more we relied on the local person for directions for the right way, a recommended restaurant, even the cup of cold water and the encouraging word. To find that we were 5 miles or quite possiby even more on the wrong road at the end of the day as happened was a real downer; but the Spirit is strong and we rose to the challenge.

On 27^th June we took a van with bikes to Kilkenny and  restarted our Camino at 7.20 am for Thomastown. There we had a quick breakfast and on to Jerpoint. Arriving shortly after 9.00 am we made ourselves and our pilgrimage  known to the receptionist. We were fortunate to be in time for the first guided tour with an American group. The sun was shining and the scene was splendid;almost movielike!Jerpoint, founded in 1180 is one of the best preserved Cistercian Abbeys and possibly was  the richest. The abbey had 20,000 acres of land.

It was dissolved in 1540.

The Tour Guide gave an excellent account of the Abbey’s history. He asked  me to name the carved figures on the tombs and made us sit in the alcoves where the abbot used to sit for Mass. The  Americans were delighted to take photos of a “live” monk!!

There are excellent photos on monastic.ie/history/jerpoint-cistercian-abbey/

Carpe Diem

Standing in the Choir monks dormitory

Stone carved Altar of the 12 Apostles
Possibly by local stone carvers.

Visual Plan of the Layout of the Monastery.

  

Timeline Day 1

Dunbrody Abbey : founded in 1170 from St Mary’s Abbey Dublin

The massive size of Dunbrody and Tintern are striking compared to the squat architecture of the first Irish abbeys built by the Irish monks. The English/Norman influence is so obvious. These two abbeys were founded from English and Welsh monasteries. The last abbot 1540 Alexander Devereux changed his religion and became the protestant bishop of Ferns.

  

The distance from Dunbrody to Tintern is only 8 miles but alas we took wrong turns and ended up adding more miles to our journey and too late for Tintern as it was closed. We were rescued by a good friend who gave us accommodation for the night. 

















Day 2 June 28th 2019.

At 6.30 a.m. we went to see Tintern. The abbey opened at 9.30, too late for us as we needed to be on the road by 8.00.

Tintern: founded in 1200 and named after Tintern in Wales.

As with Jerpoint Abbey, (15,000 acres) Tintern had huge tracks of land granted to them or acquired by the monks through various schemes. The plaque below says that the monks had granges 20 miles distance from Tintern.

Modern Day Monk ponders it all !

Tintern Abbey
Impressive front facade.

God’s glitter on road-side ditches.  “Not even Solomon in all his glory was dressed like these”

Informative Plaque.

Graiguenamanagh is said to have had 23,000 acres.

Early morning sun helps man and bike recover

After breakfast we set of for Graiguenamanagh Abbey in Kilkenny. Paddy insisted that we stop for coffee in New Ross and lucky we did as leaving New Ross there is a long very steep hill that tested our metal but we made it to the top intact.  However shortly afterwards we turned right for Graiguenamanagh and low and behold there in front of us is another long steep stinger, known locally as 'Stripe Hill'. Towards the top I dismounted my Koga friend and  threw myself down into the grass exhausted. Paddy wondered about CPR !!

Graiguenamanagh Duiske Abbey; Founded in 1204 by William Marshall and colonized by monks from Stanley in Wiltshire. It was English in its origin and outlook.

The people of Graiguenamanagh have great pride in their monastic heritage. Granite statues of monks greet you on arrival and departure.

                                     

Restoration was completed in the 1980s.  The abbey is now a parish church. 

Perhaps the monks even canoed on the Barrow; just like modern Monks. !!

There is a wonderful model of the abbey with legend showing all the regular places in the monastery from the mill on the river Barrow to guesthouse, chapter house, sacristy etc. In 1228 there were 36 monks and 50 lay-brothers.

A Dirge for Duiske

A Dirge for Duiske, once so great and grand

No white Cistercians in its abbey dwells;

Now money-loving men possess the land

And house their cattle in its ruined cells.

Graiguenamanagh restored Abbey Church

We stopped for lunch at the Duiske Inn, Main St. Graiguenamanagh, 
lunch was good and we were now set up to cycle on.

From Graiguenamanagh we cycled to Tullow where good friends gave us accommodation for the night. 
As always on walking or cycling pilgrimages the sight of a bed for the night and a shower are most welcome gifts. Soon we are showered and changed and we  headed on advice from our friends to the Tara Arms Bar & Seasons Restaurant where we enjoyed a most welcome and delicious evening meal; definitely well earned after a long and difficult day on the roads.

Tintern Abbey to Tullow

Day 3 June 29th 2019.

Tullow to Baltinglass and Bolton Abbey.

After breakfast we left Tullow knowing that today would be our relatively easy day. With little Saturday morning traffic we zipped along the hard shoulder reaching Baltinglass just after 10 am. A quick coffee/tea break at The Tea Rooms which is a Community run Cafe with its profits going to local community run initiatives; nice food and friendly service.
Having reached Baltinglass quite early this gave us nearly two hours to leisurely examine and enjoy our visit to this Abbey Ruins.

Baltinglass Abbey: founded 1151, second daughter house of Mellifont Abbey. Extensive estates in Carlow, Kildare, Laois and Wicklow.

The date AD 1151 can be seen on the wall just inside the main entrance.

Every second column has a round section or a square section. Most of the arches are Gothic but the arches dividing the transepts are Roman.

We had arrived early at Baltinglass and were able to spend over two hours there with breakfast in between. Paddy being a builder added a lot of information on the building style of the abbey which I found informative

 

We had covered all the Cistercian Ruins in the South East and so we cycled to a living Cistercian Monastery near Moone in Kildare, Bolton Abbey a foundation house of Mt. St. Joseph Abbey. We received a very warm welcome and stayed two nights there.
On Sunday we decided to take a day of rest.  I con-celebrated Sunday Mass with Paddy in attendance. The mass was celebrated by Dom. Michael and his homily was both meaningful and seemed to reflect many aspects of our Pilgrimage journey. The central theme being;whom do you trust when alone or lost in the mist!
After lunch I decided to catch up on some well earned rest (remember Stripe Hill) while Paddy decided to go to the Moone High Cross bar to 'watch the matches' although he did arrive back at 6 in reasonable condition and capable of staying on his bike!

The Bell Tolls !!

Day 5 July 1st  2019.

On Monday we set out for home, a trip of 50 miles. Coming through Stradbally famous for its steam rally and Electric Picnic, we saw an unusual sight, a tiny Orthodox church just in off the road.

Home, bloodied but unbowed!!  

Bikes need rest too !!

From Abbeyleix there is a cycle lane all the way to Durrow, where we had lunch at the Castle Arms Hotel; lunch and service was excellent. Now we were ready for our last leg for home. As we were entering Ballacolla, Paddy had a near miss 'fall' but managed to stay on board. We joked about it not being over til its over ! We had a quick break and a nap on the grass at Aghaboe Abbey and then onwards for Borris in Ossory where I was less fortunate than Paddy when I clipped a kerb  and fell to the ground. Paddy thought about CPR again or even an ambulance but quick and basic first aid and we were on the road again (mocking is catching). 
We arrived safely back at MSJ at about 4pm. Mission accomplished.