Monday, 6 May 2019

Introduction


Camino to Cistercian ruins of Ireland
2019

“Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you search the truth and make of your Camino a life and of your life a Camino, after Him who is the Way, the Life, and the Truth.”

A journal of a Cycling Camino of Cistercian Abbey Ruins by a Cistercian Monk (Fr. Aodhán Mc Dunphy) and Paddy Smyth , a House-master, at Cistercian College Roscrea.

                               
    

Stages of our Camino:


1st Stage - Mount St Josephs Abbey Roscrea  to Holy Cross Abbey, Hore Abbey, and Kilcooley Abbey in Tipperary

2nd Stage - will be in late June to Jerpoint, and Graiguenamanagh in Kilkenny, Tintern Abbey and Dunbrody Abbeys in Wexford and Baltinglass Abbey in Wicklow.

3rd Stage - (Mid-July) Abbeyknockmoy (Galway), Boyle Abbey(Roscommon),Abbeylara, Abbeyshrule (Longford), Bective Abbey (Co. Meath) and Old Mellifont Abbey (Co. Louth)


The Inspiration for this journey.


Fr.Aodhán: The inspiration for this Camino stems from my visit to the Cistercian abbey of Sobrado near Santiago de Compostella.
I had finished cycling three quarters of the Camino from  Logrono   and was resting in Sobrado Abbey. There I saw a large picture of the genealogical tree of the foundations from Citeaux  and Clairvaux founded in 1098.


What amazed me was the rapidity with which the foundations were made. In just 40 years there were foundations of Cistercians in:

Bohemia: The first Cistercian abbey in Bohemia was founded in Sedlec near Kutná Hora in 1142

England: By 1152, there were 54 Cistercian monasteries in England.

Norway: Munkeby Abbey 1180.

Ireland: Mellifont 1142, Bective 1147, Baltinglass 1148, Abbeydorney 1154
The Cistercian Abbeys in Ireland mushroomed at the same speed as the rest of Western Europe, with over 30 Abbeys throughout Ireland at the Dissolution of the Monasteries. 






Paddy: My first walking Camino, Camino Francés to Santiago de Compestella led me to a living working monastery of Mt. St. Joseph Abbey Roscrea and it was from there too that I cycled the Via Francegina to Rome. On Camino I get the sense of journeying towards “Who am I, Lord?” and “Who are you, Lord”
All pilgrimage, including our bike Camino, has the potential for spiritual and physical renewal.

                                                         

Cistercian Map of Ireland  




  

Stage 1

Stage 1      



Day 1 April 24th 2019.

We began our Camino in the rain, heading from Mt. St. Joseph Abbey to Holy Cross Abbey in Tipperary (approx. 45km). The ruins of the church were restored 1970-1975 and is now a working Parish church. The monk’s cellar is now a shop selling religious goods and the Lay-Brothers dormitory above is a meeting room and a café. We travelled lovely quiet roads from M.S.J. crossing the N7 at Cloneganna and then east of Dunkerrin through Rathnavogue and on to Killea leading onto the N62 for Borrisoleigh going left at Kilfithmone cross and then The Ragg beckoned where we had our first pit stop.
Tea, coffee toast and scones got two damp creatures ready to pedal again. 

Despite the rain which fell for most of the morning, we enjoyed the wonderful scenery. Everywhere was fresh and green. Large acreage of maize was being sown under plastic. We rode where possible on bye roads with little traffic. For the most part we could ride two abreast and chat and short breaks for fuel from “Monks Munchies” ( monastic home-made energy bars)  and water. We were surprised to see how many large and small properties along the route had electric security gates.

Not Electric but probably more effective !!



Holy cross Abbey


Founded 1168 from Monasteranenagh, which was founded from Mellifont Disestablished 1536

Today
1841
                                                                                                                       




Within the Abbey there is a discrepancy of style in the arches of the nave, pointed arches on one side and rounded arches on the other.
Was this the result of two competing teams of monks?
Also remarkable are the massive buttresses along the outside, while not being elegant, have a character of their own. Nevertheless, they give stability and strength, reminding us of the Gospel text,

“Therefore everyone who hears these words of mine and puts them into practice is like a wise man who built his house on the rock. 25 The rain came down, the streams rose, and the winds blew and beat against that house; yet it did not fall, because it had its foundation on the rock.”

After a tour of an hour and a half we went next door to the Abbey Pub for an excellent lunch.
We set out for Hore Abbey near The Rock of Cashel. (approx. 16km)

We could pass through these three ruins and not realise that they were once living breathing communities just like the one we have set out from in Roscrea. We have inherited their lifestyle and their faith.
Life and conditions were different in medieval time, but individually and collectively we have been shaped by these monasteries. Many villages and towns lived if not in the shadow of these medieval abbeys were within a day’s pilgrimage from them.

The Rock of Cashel



God's early spring glitter has begun to decorate the roadside verges.






Hore Abbey


There is a remarkable resemblance between the architecture of these three abbeys which is not surprising as Cistercian architecture was simple and utilitarian.









The words of one of Paddys favorite Willie Nelson songs keeps ringing in his head!
"On the road again, I just cant wait to get on the road again"



Originally founded by the Benedictine order in 1266. Hore Abbey was given to the Cistercians from Mellifont in 1272 by David McCarvill, Archbishop of nearby Cashel.  The Abbey was the last pre-Reformation Cistercian in Ireland. It was never prosperous. Perhaps because it lacked the most vital requirement for Cistercian buildings, namely a fast flowing river. The overall design of the monastery is a perfect example of the conservative approach of the Cistercians.


We stayed the night in Cashel Lodge, an excellent B&B. Email: info@cashel-lodge.com

Day 2 April 25th 2019.

The next leg of this stage of the Camino was to Kilcooly Abbey, Gortnahoe  approx. 35km

We took the old Cork road R639 to Horse and Jockey, Littleton, stayed on the same road for another few miles and turned at sign for Mary Willies Pub and straight to Gortnahoe.
This R639 has a wide margin within the yellow line and is quite pleasant  to cycle on. On this road there are vast acres of horse breeding and training.
We were fortunate to meet the Retired Parish Priest Fr. Joe O’Rourke, in Gortnahoe who went before us to show us into the Kilcooly estate and gave us the history of both Estate (1263 acres) and Abbey.
Kilcooley House was built in the late 18th century by the aristocratic Barker family, barons from Essex who came to Ireland and were granted – or rather, grabbed – vast tracts of land and decided to create “as fine and elegant a private gentleman’s seat as any in Europe”.
Their descendants, the Ponsonby family, lived there until 2004.
The ruined 12th century Cistercian Abbey, is now a national monument and under the care of the OPW. Due to a collapsing wall the abbey was closed to the public.



Fr. Joe and Fr Aodhán at Kilcooly Abbey         




Columbarium


As its name signifies, it is for doves. Some of the medieval French abbeys had very large stone dovecotes on their grounds. Pigeons and doves were an important food source in Western Europe and were kept for their eggs, flesh, and dung. The figure in the dovecote is probably a dove with clipped wings!!  We cycled on to Kilkenny and then home by van.

Stage 1 - Timeline
Day 1
 Mt. St. Joseph Abbey, Holycross Abbey, Hore Abbey



Day 2

 Hore Abbey, Kilkooley, Kilkenny


                                                                              

Stage 3

Stage 3 Abbeyknockmoy, Boyle Abbey, Abbeyshrule, Abbeylara, Bective, Old Mellifont and New Mellifont. 250 miles. Day 1 – Friday ...