Stage 3

Stage 3

Abbeyknockmoy, Boyle Abbey, Abbeyshrule, Abbeylara, Bective, Old Mellifont and New Mellifont. 250 miles.

Day 1 – Friday July 19^th 2019.

So as to make our first leg on Monday more manageable we decided  to do M.S.J. to Banagher today. We had lunch at the Guest House and then a leisurely 35 km via Riverstown and Rathcabbin so as to stay on quieter roads as much as possible. 35 km seemed a doddle in comparison to some of our earlier epic journeys. We arrived at Banagher about 3-30 where we had Paddy’s van in waiting; quick loading of bikes and straight back in gleeful anticipation of Monday.

Cross over the Shannon and into the West !

Mt. St. Joseph to Banagher

Day 2 – Monday July 22^nd July 2019.

We travelled back to Banagher by Paddy’s van leaving M.S.J at 7 am. On arrival we got the bikes ready for the road. Today we were being joined by  Tom Garvey ( a brother of a deceased  monk of Mt. St. Joseph Abbey Roscrea) and he accompanied us on the road today to Abbeyknockmoy and also tomorrow to Boyle. Tom’s local knowledge of the quieter roads was a great asset and together with his banter and  many yarns and jokes seemed to shorten the journey no end. We reached Abbeyknockmoy at about 1:15.

Monday Morning!! Raring to go! Surely Paddy doesn’t think he’s putting the bags on my bike!!

Abbeyknockmoy: founded from Boyle Abbey 1190

This ruin had sections of it locked up and no guide or office. We had to poke around on our own.

Tom Garvey and I on the Night Stairs to the Choir monks dormitory. You will have seen similar stairs in Holy Cross Abbey and Dunbrody. These stairs were always in the north transcept.

Pray for Lady Evelyn who was buried here in 1684. 

After visiting the Abbey we put our bikes in storage at the local Pub overnight. Tom already had his car parked here (electric);keeping our carbon footprint down!! So then Tom ferried us back to his home in Loughrea for the night. We spent a wonderful evening and overnight with Tom and his wife Jean for which we are most grateful.

Banagher to Abbeyknockmoy

Day 3 July 23^rd 2019.

Up at 6 but no stir out of Paddy who had  to be called; he claims it’s because he’s the bag carrier!!! Tom and Jean have a hearty breakfast prepared and in no time we’re back in the lecki car heading back to Abbeyknockmoy. We retrieve our bikes from Mike and back on the road again heading for the four country roads of Glenamaddy! Tom’s brother Sean lives there so that means coffee and scones at 10 which were greatly enjoyed.

Visiting Tom’s brother at Glenamaddy enroute to to Boyle Abbey.

The late Fr. Peter's brothers Sean and Tom with Fr. Aodhán.
Sean and Tom are pastmen of Cistercian College Roscrea

We then headed on for Castlerea Co. Roscommon where we stopped for an excellent lunch at the Seasons Coffee House; soup, panini’s and of course more coffee for Paddy! Fuelled up again we now head on for Boyle with Fr. Aodhán cutting out a blistering pace as if he was about to enter the Champs Elysees. ‘A Stephen Roche moment’.

We arrived in Boyle during the Arts Festival Week and there was a nice lively holiday atmosphere. A friend of Roscrea Abbey booked us into a B&B and paid for our stay for which we are most grateful. The Abbey House B&B is run by a young couple from Romania and Slovakia and we had a very pleasant stay there. As always we arrived weary, sweaty and dusty to say the least but it’s amazing what a shower can do for your body, mind and spirit.

The next photo shows us cleaned up.

Washed and Cleaned!

Boyle Abbey:

The minute the OPW man saw me, he said “You were here 6 years ago.”

I was there on a flying visit.  Eugene is the OPW man and he is a mine of information and was most helpful and courteous to us. Thank you Eugene.

This an excellent OPW tiled plaque of the plan of the Abbey.

The cloister columns are a mix of square and round and don’t make sense. Also Roman arches on one side and Gothic on the other!

The north aisle wall has been braced by timber and glass. The wall at one point before remedial works was 6ft off plumb. The timber and glass are in stark contrast to the ruins yet gracefully done with the new easily complimenting the old; perhaps the timber trusses are somewhat mimicking a type of flying buttress. All in all this is a flagship example of a well preserved ruins and great credit must go to the people responsible and to the OPW for their ongoing work.

The nave in Boyle Abbey

The cloister garth in Boyle Abbey

Given the size of the church and dormitory there could have been 40 choir monks and given the normal ratio of lay-brothers to choir 3/1, in most abbeys, it is possible that the community was up to 140-150.

I figure a lot of our time at the abbeys was spent trying to see or imagine the layout of the various rooms. We know that all the abbeys followed the same plan with only minor alterations. On this trip Boyle Abbey was the easiest to follow given the tremendous work of the Office of Public Works.

Glaisne Ó Cuilleanái Rosary   

This Rosary was in the possession of Glaisne Ó Cuilleanái (Gelasius O’Cullenan), Cistercian abbot of Boyle Abbey, when he was martyred in Dublin on 21^st of November 1580

This rosary is in a reliquary in Mt. St. Joseph Abbey Church for public veneration.

Abbeyknockmoy to Boyle

Day 4 – July 24^th  Boyle to Abbeyshrule.

As per normal we are up at 6 am get packed and bikes loaded and ready for the road. Breakfast is not until 8 am so this gives us some free time  to catch up on normal morning routines. After a nice breakfast we hit the road first for Elphin and then on to Strokestown where we had our morning break at the local Eurospar. Then we headed on for Lanesborough where we had a quick and easily forgettable lunch!! Can’t win ‘em all!! In fact we stopped again in Ballymahon where we had an excellent bite in Cooney’s Hotel.

Heading back over the Shannon Eastwards at Lanesborough 

Now fuelled up again we have just 5 miles to Abbeyshrule which proved to be a real gem! On arrival, there was a real vibe of positivity to this picturesque little village.

Abbeyshrule: foundation of Mellifont.

This Abbey was founded in Abbeyshrule in 1200 under the patronage of the O'Farrels of Annaly. It was colonised by Cistercian monks from Mellifont. In 1228 the affiliation changed to Bective Abbey. All that remains today is the ruined rectangular Abbey church, with traces of a cloister garth to the south, the foundations of the Presbytery and evidence of a south transept. The ruin of an ivy clad 16th century residential tower stands in the south east corner of the enclosure. In the 15th/16th century the arch in the central dividing wall was blocked up and three small barrel vaulted chambers were added, see bottom image. A double bellcote was also constructed over the arch.

     As a ruin it was impossible to make head or tail of the Cistercian plan. And yet the people of the village have great pride in it. They had invested in solar panels and light up the ruin every night using various colours for different feasts and festivals. We met Ursula McGoey who was to the forefront of the Tidy Town and the Abbey ruin, pestering Longford Co. Council for funds and even did a parachute jump herself. It was wonderful to meet someone so enthusiastic and chat with her.

Ursula kindly gave us permission to park our bikes at her house for the night as we were being collected here by   Tom’s son-in-law and brought to Mullingar. We visited Mullingar Cathedral while waiting for Antoinette who generously offered us accommodation for the night. We had a wonderful meal and chat with Martin and Antoinette and Martin drove us back to Abbeyshrule the next morning.

Fr. Aodhán and Ursula McGoey (newphews Paul & Charles past pupils of Cistercian College Roscrea)

Is that us!!

Paddy, Fr. Aodhán and Ursula

This is a plaque at the entrance to the abbey outlining the various religious prayers of the monastic day.

The small village of Abbeyshrule holds the rare distinction of winning multiple awards at both national and a European level. No town of comparable size has a better record in the national Tidy Towns competition and its European equivalent, the Entente Florale.

Mullingar cathedral is very beautiful. This statue caught my fancy.

Boyle to Abbeyshrule

Day 5 July 25^th 2019.

Abbeyshrule to Athboy

Martin kindly brought us back by car to Abbeyshrule where we collected our bikes from Ursula’s. Ursula insisted on us coming in for coffee (Paddy never says no to coffee) 

but also she provided us with lots of valuable information on the Abbey and on the

 local drive to keep its Spirit alive. Topped up with caffeine (Paddy) we were soon on our way for Abbeylara. Rain threatened but never really materialised and we reached the Abbey just before 12. Other than the plaque below, there seems to be no interest locally in the abbey. We found the visit disappointing. 

Abbeylara: 1205 founded from St. Mary’s Abbey Dublin

A view of the Abbey Ruins at Abbeylara.

We left Abbeylara sometime before 1 and decided our best bet for lunch was to leg it for Castlepollard where we dined in Hotel Castlepollard. We were heading next for Bective Abbey and though we wouldn’t get there today we needed to take a chunk off tomorrow’s journey. Strong head winds coupled with some steep hills meant by the 

time we got to Castledelvin we were in need of more fuel and coffee, apple tart and ice cream at The Coffee Boutique seemed to fill the gap perfectly!! Just 7 miles now to Athboy and we’re sure to get accommodation. Or are we?

When we arrived our first enquiry was met with “sorry boys (note boys) ye’ll get no room in this town tonight”; it happened that there was a big wedding party arriving in town and everything booked!!!

Neither of us felt like cycling another yard never mind several miles……and our luck was in when a kind lady on the street suggested we try The Lawrence. Yes two top drawer rooms, dinner and breakfast and all at a good price. Thank you Elizabeth; our stay with you was excellent. info@laurence.ie

After dinner Paddy went to the bar for (1 with a push 2) drinks and chatted with a couple of locals who by now had sussed us out a little. Enquiring of our journey etc. one asked “ any harm asking your ages” and on receiving the appropriate information there was a gulp of shock and awe with a string of expletives not fit for blogging but harmlessly funny at the same time.

God's Glitter continues to adorn the roadside verges, some nearly ready to present a harvest bounty.

At breakfast the following morning we met a young American lady from Idaho now living in New York.  Desiree (yes called after Neil Diamond song) was in town for the wedding and told us that she herself will marry her Irish fiancée this September. If you do get to read this ‘Best Wishes’ to you and thanks for your pleasant company at breakfast.

Abbeyshrule to Athboy

Day 6 26^th July 2019.

After a relaxing breakfast at The Lawrence we were on the road for Bective Abbey just after 10 and with some very pleasant countryside behind us we reached our destination by 11:45.

Bective Abbey: Founded 1147

   Important notes to be taken!

Very little remains of the 12^th Century buildings. Most date from the 15^{th  &} 16^th  century. The above photo of a tiled OPW plaque gives a very clear indication of its original layout along with the later 15th and 16^th century additions. Again we were in luck here as we got to join part of a guided tour. The tour guide was knowledgeable and witty although Paddy reckoned he too was a ‘Dub’!!! The tour group were with Sacred Irish Tours which specialise in tours to sacred sites in Ireland. sacredirishtours.com The ruins here are very well kept and obviously attract quite a bit of tourist attention.

A scene of the film Braveheart was shot here.

It’s time to move on and we figure we should hit for Navan and have our break there; about another 8 miles. A quick break and soon we’re back on the bikes heading  for Slane famous for its Castle and its Rock Concerts.

We reach Slane after a pleasant spin; but Paddy needs more coffee so we take our final ‘pit stop’ at the Conyngham Arms. Maybe just as well we stopped……….!!

Knowing the finish line is beckoning complacency must have set in unbeknownst to either of us. From Slane there are two routes one 9 km the other 15 km!! Both with stern hills and somehow we managed to take the long way!! Nothing like a little more penance near the end of the day. The hills have knocked it out of us so we take one of our ‘ditch’ breaks for a breather and water but this one was particularly satisfying as we can now almost smell the finish line!

       Are we there yet ???

Now just a couple of kms to Old Mellifont which turned out to be another real gem with lots to see and many informative boards to read and figure out the plans. This ruin is again a big tourist attraction and it is excellently kept. It also has an excellent museum/visitor centre.

Interestingly from our point of view there is a walk of about 25km to the abbey which apparently is now recognised as an official leg of Camino De Santiago.

We must return to this one!!   

                 

Old Mellifont Abbey: founded by St. Malachy 1142. The first Cistercian Abbey in Ireland. The abbey imported its formal style of architecture from the Cistercian  abbeys in Europe. Frere Robert was given the position of designing and superintending  the new building.

           

The most interesting and best preserved are the Lavabo and the Chapter house. The Lavabo is an octagon building in the Norman style. In 1566 a lease of the abbey and its extensive possessions was granted by   Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Moore and abbey buildings were converted and fortified.

Daughter houses of Mellifont:

Bective (1147),  Boyle (1147-1161),  Nenagh (1148)  Baltinglass (1148-1151),  Shrule (1200), Newry(1153),   Kilbeggan(1200), Hore(1272)

   

Chapter room from outside

Inside of Chapter room

Tiles in the Chapter Room originally made in Drogheda

                                    Model of Old Mellifont Abbey in its prime.

Nice view of Gothic through Roman!

The Lavabo at Old Mellifont Abbey

A question that came to me as I visited these abbeys, “Why the fascination with ruins” Ours was a pilgrimage to see how the Cistercian life had spread so rapidly in Ireland, the workmanship of medieval time and how the monks were faithful to the Cistercian ground plan for the Abbey. But we saw the fascination for ruins so many tourists had. Why not also visit modern living monasteries?

I read an article by one of the priests in Glenstal Abbey and he answers my question somewhat.

"For us the problem - if there is a problem - is the risk that what is essentially prayer should be produced as a concert piece. As far as damage is concerned, I would be more concerned about tourism, where people are so mindlessly voracious for the ultimate experience that they risk destroying the very thing they're coming to enjoy. They come in, you know, and say `where are the ruins? Every monastery has ruins”

“I'm tempted to invite them to look around at the monks . . .”

Now to new Mellifont

Still a little bit more cycling, not much fuel left in the engines and guess what; mostly
 sharp steep hills. Paddy has a psychology of talking to himself on steep hills, phrases 
like “come on Paddy just 10 more metres” and then “and 10 more” ring familiar. 
Must ‘ave learned this one on the Alps!!!

At last we arrive at Collon; we spot a bar/restaurant and we can’t resist a celebratory
 dinner and indeed it was a good one! Starters, mains and dessert; excellent choice 
and credit to No. Three Old Bar.

Water bottles topped up one last time, we now head for New Mellifont Abbey where 
we received a very warm welcome. Lovely accommodation coupled with warm 
hospitality gave us another live Monastic experience; sincere thanks to all.

Athboy to Mellifont

Day 7 July 27^th .

Our last day!! Up as usual at 6, bikes loaded, time to pray or read and Mass at 8:15. 
We have a nice long leisurely breakfast and now we are ready by 10 to cycle our 
final 35 km to Ashbourne where Paddy’s van is pre-planted at the Pillo Hotel.  
We were fortunate  to meet a very nice gentleman, Andre running the bar/restaurant . 
Andre kindly offered  us the use of the Hotel leisure centre to shower and change.
 They say ‘the camino’ keeps on giving and certainly we experienced several acts of 
random kindness!! 

We finished the day with a visit to the restored St. Mel’s Cathedral in Longford. 

What a beautiful restoration! So, the Camino finished. 

I am in awe of the workmanship, the energy and the faithfulness of those early monks.

The roads we travelled up and down were a symbol of the highs and lows of our

 moods and strength.

Mellifont to Ashbourne

Reflection.

Pilgrimage or Camino can be an opportunity for both outer and inner movement. Outer bodily physical effort towards achieving a goal;   inner spiritual movement towards communion with God.

In our case long days cycling winding roads, rolling hills, sometimes steep testers; 

a little rain now and then and yes some roller coaster downhills. Once or twice tired 

bodies taking a wrong turn but the spirit is strong and we rise again. Perhaps symbolic 

of the twists and turns of life!

The monastic ruins on one hand are but a staggering skeleton of rocks and stones but 

also perhaps suggesting permanence and resilience. In reality these stones and rocks 

were pulled or drawn together to form striking monastic spaces for the glory and 

worship of God.

In the bible we are referred to as the “living stones”

Peter 2:5

“You yourselves like living stones are being built up as a spiritual house”

Ephesians 2:20 refers to “Christ Jesus himself being the chief keystone”

Scripture also refers to Jesus as the “chief cornerstone”

Therefore I am reminded that our Church is in some way similar to the ruins;  built of many stones of different type, shape, size etc. somewhat wounded or broken but still 

bound firmly  with Jesus as our Cornerstone and Keystone. The Cornerstone propping

 us up and the Keystone binding us together.

A Keystone is the wedge shaped stone at the apex of a masonry arch. It the final piece during construction and locks all the other stones into position allowing the arch to bear weight.

A Cornerstone is a large stone often found at the north east corner of a building. Usually laid at a formal ceremony and dated. Symbolically perhaps the stone on which all subsequent stones lean upon.

In modern architecture great emphasis is placed on materials ability to absorb energy from the sun and then release it slowly to its built environment.

Perhaps too the stone of these Abbeys also absorbed the spiritual energy of their time and they too release it slowly to anyone who passes or pauses within their spaces.

Perhaps this may be one reason why ‘tourists’ fascinate on these great structures!! Maybe even unknown to themselves!

My Camino journeys, to Santiago, Rome and now Cistercian Ruins all remind me that life is a pilgrimage and inevitably promotes inner and outer change. Perhaps this is a little movement towards “Who Am I Lord and who are you Lord”

Thank you Fr. Aodhán for inviting me to share this physical, emotional and spiritual journey with you.

Paddy

Our Journey 2019.